Our company originally started in Mike Loveless’ garage in Price, Utah. A diesel mechanic, Mike had an idea and ran with it. What came from that was two brands, a vast dealer network, and dozens of products that have a place more than 30 years after Mike made his first product. Today, Dustless Technologies continues to grow and we continue to look for partnerships.
We have two brands: Love-Less Ash Co. and Dustless Technologies.
Love-Less Ash focuses on ash vacuums and accessories fit for a number of jobs including everything from home fireplace and pellet stove cleaning to vacuuming out pizza ovens in New York. Biofuel stoves, laboratory work stations, BBQs, and anything that involves heat and residue have been used with our Love-Less Ash products.
Dustless Technologies focuses on the construction and home improvement industries. This includes dust control systems – such as dust shrouds for grinders, saws, drills, etc. – and accompanying vacuums which are used to suck up the dust the aforementioned tools create.
We offer both lines of products to our dealers, so whether you are a hearth dealer, hardware store owner, or sell both we have a range of products to offer to you.
How It Works
In order to become a Love-Less/Dustless dealer, you first off need to own a company or franchise. We sell to end users at retail price, and we can arrange partnerships with businesses to provide products with a discount.
Primarily during the application process, you need all the general information – address, bank information, contact information; however, there are three unique things you need:
Federal Tax I.D. #
State Tax I.D. #
Two credit references
Once you provide this information, you simply submit the form via e-mail to email@example.com or by fax to 208-567-6706.
Typically, we will get to work immediately on processing your application. The most variable thing is the time it takes for the credit references to check back with us.
Payment terms are NET 30 by default.
Once you have been approved, you will be assigned two representatives: a manufacturers representative and an internal representative.
Manufacturers representatives, or reps, are geographically located and will be assigned based on your primary location.
Internal representatives are members of our sales team who will coordinate with you and your rep to ensure you have all the resources you need, including pricing, images, descriptions, and product shipping coordination.
Being A Dealer
Once you’ve been approved and setup – that’s it! You can order as you please. There are no minimum orders, no minimum amounts. You order what you want, when you want.
Of course, we will provide you with a discount from the retail price so that you can position yourself competitively in the marketplace.
We highly encourage you to have a physical location, although we do allow dropshipping also. We have a strict web policy that permits a dealer to sell on your own website, but not other websites such as Amazon. This protects our dealers who have stores from being undercut by large corporations, such as Amazon, while allowing you to still have a competitive advantage by working your prices and margins in store and on your own website.
The Dealer Application
You can access our Dealer Application here. If you have any questions about what a partnership between our companies would look like, please contact us. We would be very happy to answer any questions you have. Our team can be reached at (435) 637-5885 or at firstname.lastname@example.org
This week we discuss how to fix puddling from improper concrete laying or settling.
Q: I laid a concrete slab in my backyard last year for a one-sided basketball court for the kids. After it rains there is a lot of sitting water in the middle of the pad. It’s not that big so I’d rather not tear it out. How do I repair it? – Tim Reese
A: Thank you for your question Tim! This is a pretty common issue to have, as there are a lot of physical factors at play when laying concrete. Much of it depends on what caused the uneven concrete in the first place. The first step is to determine what is causing the sitting water.
What You Should Know First
DIY repair jobs on concrete can be hit-and-miss. There are multiple reasons for this: the color of the existing concrete may be different from the new concrete. Additionally patches may not last as long as an original concrete pour. Lastly, it can be difficult to level the concrete patch accurately. Weigh your options – you can do a DIY job now, but you will someday probably need to replace the pad. With that said, if you are still comfortable with proceeding, read on!
Determining The Cause
Firstly, you must determine if the concrete is bowing down due to settling or puddling.
Often occurs in areas where water accumulates.
Makes the concrete look cracked or ‘spider-webbed’.
Often has a ‘trajectory line’ where the settlement occurs; for example, if it occurs in one square foot you will probably see settlement nearby in a linear pattern or patches.
Often difficult to see without using levels.
Gives a more smooth appearance than settlement.
From the question it sounds like this is not concrete settlement but rather puddling. If, by chance, your concrete has settled it is much more difficult to fix than puddling. If your cement is settling, then the larger concern is that the soil beneath your basketball pad is moving. You can add to it, as we will discuss in puddling, but the larger concern is with the fact that it will probably do it again.
If you experience settlement, we recommend contacting a professional who will come in and raise the basketball pad. This is much easier and safer than doing it by yourself. We also urge you to check around other places on your property to ensure your home isn’t experiencing any settling also. You can read more about settling here.
From here, we will discuss how to fix puddling.
Clean It Thoroughly
The first step is to clean that pad deeply. Any grime, even smaller particles, can cause problems with laying a patch. A pressure washer is great to use. Spray it down, then spray it again. You want the water coming off the pad absolutely clear. Depending on the depth of the puddle, you may need to do a more thorough preparation job, such as an acid etch.
If you don’t have a pressure washer a hose will work, but you will need to wash, rinse, and repeat over and over again. Taking a scrub brush to the area might be a good idea.
Evaluate The Depth of Repair
If you have a very small amount of area that needs patched (i.e. less than one vertical inch) you can use something more liquid in nature. Anything above an inch in depth and you will want to have a thicker mix, including something with a bit of rock in it. You decide what kind of patch you want to apply, but know this cardinal rule that applies to much more than concrete – if you buy cheap, you reap cheap rewards. If you want a lasting job, buy quality patch materials. You can find these concrete mixes at pretty much any home improvement store, and will likely need just one bag for a smaller job.
Use a 2×4, or several, to lay across the puddling. This is going to act as your level – bringing the new patch up to the bottom of the board. This will ensure that your patch is level with the concrete around it. Note: Use discretion when using a level on your concrete pads. Sometimes concrete may not always be laid entirely level to begin with.
To prep the pad, soak the pad with water. Concrete is of course wet, but the water will seep down into the existing pad if it is not wet. Thus, you want to make sure the existing slab is saturated with water.
Mix the concrete (remember, thicker concrete for a thicker patch).
The two options: patch mix or a bonding agent. The patch mix works by itself; the bonding agent needs mixed with concrete. Available at Home Depot.
You first want to add a primer coat, then follow it up with the full patch (either a patch mix or concrete with a bonding agent). The combination will ensure proper bonding.
Mix the primer according to the instructions on the bag (remember, thick aggregate for larger patches, thin aggregate for thinner patches).
Place the primer in the patch area and smooth it with whatever is working best – a trowel, board, or another tool. For this portion the primer should be very thin. Just enough to cover the area lightly (around 1/8″ deep).
Combine the patch mix with water. Alternately, you can use normal concrete mix and a bonding agent. These should be near the concrete at the store. Use your best judgment in buying a concrete mix and the bonding agent.
Fill in the patch area and level it out with a trowel or 2×4.
Ensure that the patch lines up with the bottom of the 2×4(s) that you lined up as guides. Remember, the more time you spend ensuring the patch looks smooth, the better it will look when you are finished.
As soon as the new concrete is laid down, you will need to add a curing agent. This will help with the longevity of the patch. This is a liquid substance that is sprayed on top of the new concrete and can be found in the same place you purchase your primer, concrete, and bonding agent.
Concrete should stay put for about a week without being disturbed. This will ensure that your concrete hardens correctly.
After you have completed the patch, it should work as you originally intended. You may need to take additional steps to fix coloration issues.
Another issue that you may find is some newly laid concrete that still needs work. If it fixes the problem of standing water on your pad, and doesn’t pose a threat to injury by people playing ball on the pad, then it will probably be fine to be left alone. However, you are probably aware that there are multiple factors at play that can cause concrete cracking. Your patch may crack, so you may need to do several iterations, or fixes, to get a smooth pad. We will not explore more in depth here, but would refer you to a local professional or other guides on concrete cracking.
Vacuums For Concrete Cleanup
Understandably, working with concrete can be messy. We make vacuums that are specifically designed for concrete work and cleanup in two options: HEPA Wet+Dry and Wet+Dry Vacuums. HEPA vacuums filter out the smallest particles, including hazardous material such as silica from concrete. Our normal Wet+Dry Vacuums will still filter out small dust particles and is great for slurry work. Both types of vacuum can be used in cleaning up concrete slurry and concrete dust.
Q: I do drywall for a living as I get contracted out to fix peoples walls, fix up buildings, help in building renovation, sanding joint compounds, you get the idea. I have worked with drywall every day for nearly 15 years as a tradesman. Of course it is messy and I’m often covered in drywall after a long days work. I want to know is the drywall dust toxic? When I grew up people didn’t care so much about their health but I’m starting to feel the effects of working a hands on job. I want to know if I should be taking precautions when doing my job. Thanks. – H
A: H., thank you for your question! Our first wet dry vacuum was actually intended for working with drywall, so we have done quite a bit of research on its properties.
To answer your question in short: drywall dust is not toxic to the body in smaller amounts. This means it will not cause any long-term diseases. However, it can irritate parts of the body, like the eyes and throat. This is because it is made of a chemical known as gypsum (calcium sulfate dihydrate).
Fast Facts About Gypsum
Gypsum is generally non-flammable
It is not hazardous to the skin (with the exception of allergic reactions)
Gypsum will irritate your eyes, nose, mouth, and throat for a short period of time
It can affect the lungs over a lifetime of work without a dust mask
Gypsum is non-reactive with water
It is generally non-reactive with the human body
Looking at the atomic structure of gypsum, the main component of drywall dust, we learn a few things:
The sulfur compound is very stable; yet it is a prime nucleophile. With the oxygen on the water molecules (H2O) creating a partial positive charge on the hydrogen (H), the negatively charged oxygen (O-) on the sulfur compound will liberate hydrogen atoms from the water. This makes the compound slightly basic on the pH scale.
This leaves the pH of the compound at approximately 7.7 pH. This is close to the pH of pool water (~7.4), so it will probably have the same effect on your eyes as chlorine does when you go swimming – it irritates the eyes, but only for a short period of time. This is a fairly neutral pH.
Because it is so stable, it does not pose a long-term threat to the body.
Effects On The Body
We have already established that the compounds in drywall are generally not dangerous to your body. Two things can make it irritate your eyes, nose, and throat though:
First, drywall dust is very fine – about 10 microns, or micrometers, in diameter. To give you an idea of how small that is, the diameter of the average human hair is about 75 microns. Drywall dust particles are extremely small and can easily travel through the airways. In the short-term it will just irritate your eyes, nose, and throat; however, if you never use a dust mask or respirator the repeated irritation can cause more long-term asthma like symptoms; however, if you have always worn a dust mask, chances are you will be fine.
Second, people wonder about silica. We hear about silica often in concrete – so do we need to be concerned with drywall? Silica, a dangerous substance, has historically been found in drywall. Yet, in recent years suppliers have offered silica free compounds. The drywall you purchase from your supplier likely does not contain silica. We do caution you to check your supplies to ensure you are using a silica-free compound.
Should You Worry?
Unless you have worked for a long time without a mask or respirator, you shouldn’t worry. It may be advisable to have a checkup by your physician if you experience asthma-like conditions or experience a difficult time breathing. In drywall dust format, the gypsum is too large to get down into the lungs and sediment there. However. you should still take precautions. This includes proper Personal Protection Equipment and a dust control system.
What Can I Use For Dust Control?
We have a line of products to control dust when working with drywall.
Drilling: The 1 3/8″ BitBuddie and DustBubble allow you to drill without the dust.
Cutting: The SawBuddie is a reciprocating saw tool, while the 4″ and 8″ BitBuddies allow you to use a knife to cut through drywall.
We recommend our Wet+Dry Vacuum – our original drywall vacuum – which is specifically designed to capture, and contain, fine dust such as drywall dust. It has a great seal and filters out fine dust without the cost of a HEPA vacuum.
Thank you for your question!
This Week We Discuss a Question Regarding The Toxicity of Drywall Dust